Introduction to Your Home

The first two weeks with your new kitten will set the tone for the years to come. Our method will ensure a smooth and stress-free transition for your new kitten. Remember to be patient and flexible, let your kitten set the pace.

Preparation

Cat Proof
Check your kitten's safe room along with the rest of your home for hazards listed in Cat Proofing Your Home.
Beware of "High Rise" risks. Block off access to dangerous architectural elements in your home, such as drop-ceiling beams, ledges, open stairs and landings, decks, lofts, or balconies. Along with screens that may fall out, kittens will climb them.
Check under furniture and in crevices for spilled medication, especially NSAIDs and products containing Xylitol.
Be prepared to adjust your cat-proofing measures as your kitten grows and changes.
Start well in advance of your kitten's arrival. This takes time!
Set Up
Set up a room for your new family member. Choose a small room, so your new kitten will feel secure. In this room place the litter box, food, and water dishes. Your kitten will be in this room for as long as it takes. Avoid using rooms or block off areas where the kitten can get under or behind large pieces of furniture, such as beds, bookcases, or appliances. Set up a hiding place with a soft bed that you can easily access and put the litter box right next to it. The kitten will not cross the room to get to the box. Set your kitten up for success! Include a scratching post. This is your chance to start him off right, so don’t offer flimsy kitten products! Give him the real deal that he will use as an adult. See: Kitten Essentials. Plan for your kitten to stay in this room until he acts like he was born there.

When You first get home

Put the carrier on the opposite side of the litter box from the hiding place you created. Place the water dish close by. Let the kitten stay in the carrier with the door open until he decides it is safe to come out. Cover the carrier with a towel. Keep children away from the kitten for the first couple days. When the kitten is relaxed, they can begin to sit quietly in the room but only if they agree to be quiet and sit still. Feed the kitten when you go to bed. Slide the food in where he is hiding. It is normal for the kitten not to eat for the first 48 hours. If you are feeding raw, only put out a spoonful or two until he starts eating well. If it goes any longer than 48 hours, contact us. Each kitten is different. Some come right out, some want company from a distance. Some will only explore when the house quiets down at night and they are alone. Remember this is the most stressful time of your kitten's life. Let the kitten dictate how fast you proceed. This article is worth reading: Introducing a New Cat into Your Household

How do I know When My kitten is ready to Explore the House?

• The kitten will run out to meet anyone who comes in his room. • The adult cats have stopped hissing at the kitten under the door. • The kitten is no longer hissing under the door at the dog. • The kitten no longer hides when he hears noises from outside his room.

Tips for Introducing Cats

• Rub your current cats with a hand towel. Then rub the new kitten with the same towel. • Do the reverse, rub the new kitten first, then rub your cats with that towel. • Place towels where your cats and the new kitten sleeps. Each day switch the towels around. The cats will begin to smell alike and will learn to accept the new scents. • Always keep a closed door between them. • It is important not to allow any confrontations. These can develop into a behavior pattern that lasts a lifetime.
H

Time To Explore

The time has come for your kitten to explore the rest of the house! Pick a time when the children are occupied elsewhere. Place all your current cats in the new cat’s room. Do not let the animals get face to face as you do this. Shut the door! Put the dogs outside or in their crates. This serves several purposes: Your cats will get used to the kitten when they are able to explore new scents with no confrontations. Your new kitten will be able to explore the house without being stalked. Once the children and pets are squared away, it's time to begin! Take your new kitten and put him in the main litter box. Let him begin to explore your house from there. Every 15 minutes, place him back in the litter box. You want him to "map" your house from the litter box, so when the “need” arises he will be able to find his way back to it from any corner of the house. When you run out of time to monitor the kitten, let your current pets back out in the house and place the kitten back in his room. They will continue the acceptance process on their own by smelling where the other has been. This will be your new routine for the next week or so! Do not let the kitten have free run of the house until you are sure he knows where the litter box is from every corner of the house and nothing your dogs, cats, or children do will deter him from going there. If the kitten is leery of the other members of your household, he will not go past them and will potty somewhere else. This obviously is very important!

Dogs

Do not let your dog harass your new kitten. Allowing your dog to follow the kitten around will deeply stress the kitten. Any chasing, no matter what the speed, no matter if the dog is 100 years old and will not harm the kitten, is still extremely stressful and can lead to litter box problems. Use a pet gate, crate or leash to contain your dog.

Final Thoughts

It is important not to let any problems develop from the start. Any fights or confrontations could easily result in an unwanted behavior pattern. Our method of introducing pets will keep this from happening. Remember your new kitten is not the only one who is stressed. Your current cats will most likely not be thrilled over the new addition. Stress can lead to litter box problem. If done correctly, our method of introduction will keep this from happening. Keep in mind there is no set time frame. Some pets are friends in two days, some seem to take forever. Do not hurry the process. Always be willing to back up a couple steps and you will eventually have a harmonious household, and no litter box issues. If you have adopted an adult cat and/or do not have other pets, following this procedure is still recommended. In the beginning, keeping your new cat in his safe room will prevent accidents when he is frightened by his new surroundings. When he begins to feel at home [at his pace] you can start to teach him to map your house from the litter box.